We have Malinois puppies available for adoption and ready to go to their new homes.
Dog Training Videos GSP and Malinois
We offer a series of Dog Training Videos to our client's who purchased a puppy from Czechmate kennel and also to the general public. In this series I try to explain the theory behind my training and teach you how I go about training dogs, our own and client's. We will also show you how, in our opinion, you can raise a well adjusted, confident and healthy dog. Better your relationship between you and your GSP or Malinois K9 companion, as well as solve most of the common dog training issues we are often asked to help with by our clients. You will learn how to train a well behaved GSP dog from the very start to a competitive level in obedience and lay a solid foundation for various working, sport and pet dogs.
This is not a substitution for our in person dog puppy training lessons, but it definitely is a step in the right direction, as most of training help available online is, in our opinion, useless.
One thing we always point out is to not wait till your puppy is 6 or 12 months old and then try to fix behaviour and training problems. The best and proper way is to start right from day 1the correct way.
The price of our Training Video Series is $399CAD for CzechMate puppies and $549 for others.
If you are interested in purchasing our dog training videos feel free to contact us:
HOW TO KEEP YOUR PUPPY'S FOCUS ON YOU
PERFECTING YOUR DOG'S ATTENTION
MY TRAINING THEORY EXPLAINED
TRAINING THEORY IN PRACTICE
TEACHING THE RETRIEVE part 1
TEACHING THE RETRIEVE part 2
TEACHING THE RETRIEVE part 2.5
TEACHING THE RETRIEVE part 3
TEACHING THE JUMP with Vixie
HOW WE SOCIALIZE PUPPIES part 1
FREE
HOW WE SOCIALIZE PUPPIES/DOGS part 2
POTTY TRAINING
NAIL TRIMMING
CRATE TRAINING PART 1
CRATE TRAINING PART 2
CRATES IN THE HOUSE AND HOW WE USE THEM
HOW TO TRAVEL WITH DOGS
SOCIALIZING, INTERACTION AND PACK ORDER
from one of our seminars
BEGINNING OF COMPETITIVE HEELING
LEASH WALKING
TEACHING THE RECALL
TEACHING FRISBEE
TEACHING THE HOLD
TEACHING THE RETRIEVE part 1
TEACHING THE RETRIEVE part 3
TEACHING DOGS TO SWIM
JUMPING ON PEOPLE
FEEDING DOGS
DESENSITIZING TO GUN SHOTS
AND MORE . . .
© Czechmate Kennels inc. 2022. No part of the materials available through this site may be copied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine-readable form, in whole or in part, without prior written consent of Czechmate Kennels inc. Any other reproduction in any form without the permission is prohibited. All materials contained on this site are protected by copyright law and may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, displayed, published or broadcast without the prior written permission.
Dew Claws and Tail
Dewclaws and Tail docking.
Removing Dew Claws is another of American invention. Most or fair to say no-one in Europe even knows what it is or why the heck we would remove them. It upsets me greatly that people can be such sheep and easily misled by the dumbest ideas one can come up with. It also upsets me greatly that chopping of animals' body parts is cool in the society and more so it is even looked up to, now that is a seriously scary chit right there! The dogs, wolves and coyotes has had their dew claws for thousands and thousands of years and they are still doing just fine! All our dogs at home are doing fine too and all their ancestors were fine too!
No, we don’t remove dewclaws at our kennel, unless we have a pup with some visibly deformed and they should be removed for obvious reasons. Properly bred dog has a nice tight dewclaw that is very important for them!
Removing dew claws leads to arthritis in the joint, that is a proven fact and besides that it is just simple. It is completely stupid. One of the few smart things the Vet Society finally did is to ban their Vets from removing Dew Claws. YET the internet is still full of idiotic articles about how good it is to remove them because Mitsy Poodle that doesn’t leave the couch can rip them off jumping off and her owner Lisa FruFru likes her dog legs nice and smooth. Does it sound stupid? Yes, that’s because it is! How low and naive have we become and how dangerous it is that people can be convinced that dumbest things to do are actually good?! Yes, I am peed off about it ;) Every time i hear that someone reinvented the wheel or wants to tell mother nature what to do I become very cautious.
Tail Docking falls in the same category, BUT at least it doesn’t affect the dog’s health by causing joint problems (if done properly). However, one very important thing that no-one talks about! is the fact that in cold countries like Canada, for example, the dogs need their tail to cover their private parts to stay warm and prevent frostbite! That IMO falls into the important label.
You can see in the picture clearly that the purple is the ligament! So NO, THERE IS NO RIGHT WAY OF DOING IT! But hey for millennia chopping the Achilles Tendon was a form of torture, so why don't we do it to our dogs because Lisa said so ;)
Cheers
New GSP Puppy at Home
Few Basic Tips for your new GSP puppy arrival:
- Offer FOOD to your GSP puppy 4 times per day for the first week or two. It is a good idea to soak his kibble in hot water for 20 minutes but no need. Remove uneaten food in 5-10 minutes and feed it later. Do not leave food available.
- Have WATER Available at home non-stop.
- Let your GSP puppy SLEEP a lot. They are just little babies and need to sleep, even tho they will look like they want to play. Leave your pup alone and let him sleep a lot, it is very important.
- Keep your GSP puppy WARM for the first couple of weeks. They can not regulate their temperature as well as adult dogs yet (esp. our shorthaired pointers), keep your puppy warm. It is OK to go potty outside in the winter but go right back in after.
- Start POTTY TRAINING your GSP puppy the day you get your pup. Take him outside fast after every playtime, food, and sleep. Go out a lot and praise him/her every time she goes potty.
- Go for a booster VACCINE about 2 weeks after you get your GSP puppy.
- Start CRATE training your new GSP puppy. This doesn't have to be the first day but do not wait 3 months, trust me ;) Few minutes at a time.
- Do not go to any DOG PARKS or anywhere where other dogs have access, their immune system is not fully developed yet. Wait till 10 days after his booster vaccine.
- Do NOT EXERCISE your GSP puppy yet, let him sleep, eat and play at home. He has no business to go hiking with you!
- Do not treat him like a sick human baby, respect and love your puppy but you are his LEADER, not a pushover / food dispenser.
- Teach your GSP puppy to FOLLOW you, try not to follow your puppy.
- Your GSP puppy will be SCARED at his new home for the first 48 hours. Be aloof to it and do not reinforce this behavior. In two days things will completely change.
- Do not give your GSP puppy a BATH or wash his ears! They need the scent and oils in their coat and it is normal for puppies to have dirty ears a bit. They will clean themselves and your vet will wipe them, if you wash their ears they will easily get infected.
- Give your new GSP pup a marrow beef BONE or such. They are dogs and need to chew. Your pup will also be teething so chewing is essential. Plastic or rubber toys are not what they are designed to chew on.
- Last but not least. Remember you have a new puppy and a lot of businesses will try to make MONEY on you because you are in a new and vulnerable stage in your life. This, unfortunately, includes many veterinarians and almost all retailers. Remember you got a healthy puppy, he doesn't need all the toys and beds and jackets and 10 vaccines and tests nor every stranger petting him. He needs a stable and structured home which he calls his pack and we humans call it a family.
The best thing to do once you get your new GSP or Malinois puppy home is to start establishing some sort a routine right from the start. This will help you with potty training and possible anxiety issues down the road. Start your kennel training early, that will also help with potty training and get your puppy used to his crate as a normal part of his daily life and he becomes to like his safe place/crate. Start establishing your rules and do's and don'ts, the earlier you start, the easier it will be. Don't spoil your puppy, even tho it is hard to resist, it's for his own good. Many people unintentionally reinforce the initial scared puppy behaviour, just ignore it.
Using Leashes or Not
In psychology and ethology, imprinting is any kind of phase-sensitive learning (learning occurring at a particular age or a particular life stage) that is rapid and apparently independent of the consequences of behavior.
Imprinting is important and it can be done easier with a young puppy than an older dog, but it can be accomplished in all life stages.
When a puppy wolf is born (this btw apply to all animals except people, for some weird reason unknown to me) the mom or dad wolf never chase after their young. The babies are genetically imprinted to follow their parents in order to seek safety, food, shelter, and love. Their basic and most important needs for survival. They play games where the mom will play hide and seek and the babies have to cry and look for her. This builds their want to keep an eye on their mom or later on a pack leader. The mom never "makes" the pup to follow and she never pulls him behind her on a rope nor she restricts him from running off, he is free to do so if he wants to get eaten by someone. (watch my video above) They never are this dumb tho, unless we mess them up. So now picture what humans do. They do exactly the opposite, interesting, don't u think? I never could understand why. People put a collar and a leash on as one of the first things we do, perhaps it gives us a false sense of security or leadership or dominance, I don't know. What happens is we build up anxiety in our dogs since they are puppies, we actually imprint them with the fact that they want to get away and we don't let them so they want it more and more, just like ice cream you can see but never reach. Kinda drives you mad overtime huh? Then one day the leash snaps or the door opens and the dog goes nuts running away for the first time free in his life. Same for horses. Then we start buying different crutches/gadgets and think that is what will solve the mental issue we created. No, it will not, it might mask it somewhat but it will not go away unless we start having a different approach. Now, I am not saying you shouldn't own a leash, if you go to the vet or an airport or whatever, sure, snap a leash on, no biggie, but if you can't take your dog out without one, that's not good.
So what I recommend you do with your pup instead of putting him on a leash and pull him around right from the start is Start playing hide and seek with him, make it progressively more complicated. Every time he finds you, make a big deal about it and give him a hot dog. Do Not Ever chase after your dog, you can never catch him and once you do it, unless you are very good at training, he will figure out that he can get away if he wants to. Run the other way and call him, make it more fun then whatever is on the other side, as a matter of fact, you should always be more fun then everything else. Figure out your ways how to play this game. Go for a bike ride and make sure you change your direction often enough so it doesn't look like you are chasing your dog tho ;) Take out your ATV or a horse or simply hide around the corner or a tree while you're walking. Remember Recall is the one and only most important thing to teach your dog and it is IMHO the responsibility of each dog owner. It is, of course, more complex then this short article, at some point you will have to introduce some sort of correction and so on, but this is good basic info to have.
If you get a puppy from me, he or she will be used to following his leader, keep up with it and you will not have problems.
If you get a puppy from me, he or she will be used to following his leader, keep up with it and you will not have problems.
Male vs Female
Should I get a Male or Female puppy and what are the differences? That is one of the most common questions I get from clients getting a puppy from us. :)
I will try to give you "my opinion" again. I am sure other people might have a different one as I will try to "generalize" here of course. From my experience (let's start with females, ladies first ;)
Females are (generally speaking) Tougher, Smarter, Have more Drive often and fight much harder in case there is a dog fight.
Males are more laid back (doesn't mean they are lazy at all), maybe not as sharp lol, yes yes I am sorry to admit that :) and often not as focused.
Yes, you can sit here and watch my males whine, bark, run in a certain direction, only to realize 50 yards later that it is the wrong way and so on ;) That is of course before someone is in heat. When there is females in heat then I would say that they are as dumb as can be sadly and focused as much as someone can be, without even eating sometimes for a few days ;)
Now, of course, I still do everything with all dogs, no matter if they are or they are not in heat. Boys and girls, but you definitely have to have a handle on them both if they should perform while someone is in heat. Mostly the boys will be very distracted and if they don't listen to you normally, then they will not listen for sure. Females will be sneaky and pretend they are dumb and didn't hear you when you called, so better keep your eyes open. But it can be done quite easily if you spend your time training your doggies.
Females are cranky sometimes and they are true bitches, well the best ones are ;)
I always tell people that if they need a dog that can pull their team at midnight in minus 20C from a creek because they fall through the ice with the dog sled, then get a female at the front.
If you want a dog that will be only your couch buddy, get a male.
Now to mix you up even more. They can both do it all, it is just how you go about it and how you perhaps have to adjust your training accordingly to get the results you want. Again this is only a generalization. Not all dogs will be like this and yes, I know, there is a lot of people that have 1 or 2 dogs and they will think their male is super smart or their female is super cuddly and friendly with every dog. It is a bit different when you have a big pack at home and raise and train 100 of them.
With this being said, if you Spay or Neuter your dog then IMHO there is no difference at all. The only difference will be the way they pee :) Most of these differences are driven by hormones and by "fixing" your pup, you unfortunately, remove the majority of the difference causing hormones.
My solution to this is simple. I run a male and a female at the front of my team and it works awesome for us :) Maybe that's the way nature intended this system to be? ;)
Puppy Shipping
Yes, we are able to ship your new puppy "Coast to Coast". We use only approved Airline Carries and we handle the entire procedure to make it stress free for you and your pup. All you will have to do is show up on time at your Airport Cargo with the address and directions we will provide.
Yes, sometimes we even Fly our Puppies in Private Jets :)
We will handle the following:
- Booking a Flight
- Purchasing the right and approved Shipping Crate
- Taking your puppy to the Vet office for his/hers "Fit to Fly" Health Certificate
- Delivering your puppy to the Airport
- Emailing you all necessary Shipping Information you will need to pick up your puppy at your nearest airport
- Possibly accompanying your puppy on the flight to it's destination
Puppy at our Vet's Office
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Puppy getting his Fit to Fly Health Exam and Puppy being weighed in at the Airport
Contact us
NEW WEBSITE
Email: czechmatekennels@gmail.com
Instagram GSP: instagram.com/czechmatetraining
Instagram Malinois: instagram.com/czechmate_.service_.dogs
Telephone AB 403 741-81**
Telephone BC 604 961-02**
(Telephone number is only upon request)
We are located in central AB and BC Canada
If you are interested in booking a seminar for your K9 security, law enforcement group or a dog club, please contact us for available dates.
We provide services in English, Czech, Hungarian, Russian, Polish and Slovak
VPD Trial
Versatile Protection Dog exam
This test is designed to test working dogs and their training, nerves, personality, drives, obedience and most of all safety, as well as expose their weaknesses. We combine aspects from Schutzhund IPO/IGP and Bite suit oriented sports. Dogs who complete our titles can safely and consistently bite a decoy on a full body suit, bite sleeve and a hidden sleeve. We demonstrate gun shots by the handler him self and also the decoy. This test is not easy, but we believe we combined the best aspects from most common established protection tests in dog sport and police work. Any dog can enter, however this test is mostly built for well bred working Belgian and German Shepherds with proper training. Dogs have to show the utmost level of obedience under the highest level of distractions and have to be able to safely and with determination disable a decoy with a solid and full bite with a full grip without re-biting or chewing. Dogs with insufficient training or unstable nerves will unfortunately not be allowed to complete. VPD BH (basic handling) and VPDjr are designed to set a dog and handler on the right path from the start to demonstrate that the team has enough training and control to move on to a protection level. All Levels, except VPD BH, will be scored and judged with a focus on dog's precision while performing each exercise, as well as eye contact with the handler and their eagerness to work.
VPD BH
This test is designed for younger puppies but dog of any age can enter.
Handler and dog have to demonstrate:
1. Walking on leash without pulling, jumping, biting, hiding between legs and over all show reasonable control while walking your puppy a set distance.
2. Trimming all nails on one front paw without the dog showing signs of aggression, biting and dog has to remain relatively calm and under control.
3. Loading and unloading a dog into and from a crate without touching the dog. Dog has to remain calm and show no signs of aggression. When unloading, dog has to wait in the open crate till judge’s signal to the handler.
4. Dog has to demonstrate SIT and DOWN
5. Handler has to demonstrate showing dog’s teeth to the judge and dog has to remain calm.
Correction, Double commands and Body signals by the handler are not allowed in all levels below.
VPD jr
Handler and dog have to demonstrate following exercises (dog can be on or off leash at handler’s discretion):
1. Heeling a set distance STRAIGHT with a LEFT, RIGHT and ABOUT turn. Dog has to start from a sit and end with a sit in heeling position.
2. Long down. Handler will put his dog in a down position, walk away min 10 paces and recall his dog at judge’s signal. Dog has to return to HIER and HEEL position, handler can come closer to his dog for the recall.
3. Retrieve on flat surface. Handler can choose his retrieval object at this level. Dog has to start and from a heeling SIT position, bring an object back to handler in a HIER position, HOLD, OUT and return to heeling SIT position.
4. Bite on a Tug. Handler will put his dog in a down position, walk away min 10 paces and will call his dog to come for a bite on a bite tug. Dog should display reasonable speed and a decent bite.
VPD 1
Handler and dog have to demonstrate ALL following exercises OFF LEASH:
Part 1 OBEDIENCE:
1. Heeling a set distance STRAIGHT and demonstrate slow, regular and a fast pace as well as a LEFT, RIGHT and ABOUT turn and a figure 8 pattern between people. Dog has to start from a sit and end with a sit in heeling position.
2. Sit from Heel. Handler heels with his dog, command his dog to SIT and handler continues walking for min 10 paces. Handler stops, turns and pauses for min 3 seconds. handler returns to his dog to heeling position. End of exercise.
Dog has to remain sitting till the end of the exercise.
3. Down from Heel. Same as above except with DOWN.
4. Long Down. Handler will put his dog in a down position, walk away and recall his dog at judge’s signal. Dog has to return to HIER and HEEL position, handler can come closer to his dog for the recall.
5. Retrieve on Flat surface. Handler can choose his retrieval object at this level. Dog has to start and from a heeling SIT position, bring a dumbell back to handler in a HIER position, HOLD, OUT and return to heeling SIT position.
6. Retrieve over a Jump. Handler has to use designated dumbbell. Dog has to start and from a heeling SIT position, bring an object back to handler in a HIER position, HOLD, OUT and return to heeling SIT position.
7. Retrieve over an A-frame. Handler has to use designated dumbbell. Dog has to start and from a heeling SIT position, bring an object back to handler in a HIER position, HOLD, OUT and return to heeling SIT position.
8. Long Send Out. handler has to send his dog STRAIGHT AHEAD and DOWN his dog half way out.
Part 2 PROTECTION:
1. BLINDS (Bite sleeve exercise) Handler and dog start in the middle of the field after reporting to a judge or a steward. Dog has to run 2 blinds. Perform BARK and HOLD in a blind (dog is NOT allowed to BITE). Handler has to recall his dog from bark and hold to heeling position, call decoy out of the blind, heel his do a designated spot and DOWN his dog. From there handler steps away from his dog and decoy performs an ESCAPE with a bite on the SLEEVE.
Decoy stops, handler OUTs his dog, RE-ATTACK and REBITE, decoy DRIVES the dog, stops, handler OUTs his dog, puts his dog on leash and decoy steps away.
End of exercise.
Attention is on full and strong bites, speed, clean outs and engagement of the dog.
2. COVER (Body suit exercise) Handler start in a kneeling position with his dog beside him in a DOWN position from behind a cover (often a hood or a open door of a vehicle). Decoy agitates and threatens the team from distance (+ - 15 paces) by loud voice and a stick. Handler calls out 3 times "Stop or I will send my dog!" each followed by gunshot from the handler (3 in total), decoy keeps threatening the team during the entire time. After 3rd gunshot handler sends the dog for a bicep bite on a full body suit. Decoy throws away bite sleeve as the dog is running at him. (Same sleeve as the one used in exercise 1) Handler comes to OUT his dog, recall his dog and put him/her on leash. Decoy steps away. End of exercise.
3. VEHICLE (Body suit exercise) Handler and dog team start in a vehicle. Decoy runs to the field and threatens the team by loud voice and minimum of 3 gun shots. Handler calls out of the vehicle window 3 times "Stop or I will send my dog!" Decoy threatens the team the entire time by loud voice and gun shots (minimum of 3). After handler's 3rd call the handler send his dog out of the vehicle window for a bite on a full body suit.
Handler comes to OUT his dog, recall his dog and put him on leash. Decoy steps away. End of exercise.
(Both exercises 2 and 3 can also be performed as LEG BITES, provided that it has been previously established with the judge at a Handler's meeting at a beginning of the trial) Title given for leg bite version is VPD 1L
VPD 2
Very similar to VPD 1, but with random changes in trial routine based on judges discretion. Also includes hidden sleeve, building search and vehicle scenario is reversed - decoy is in a vehicle and dog is sent for an arm bite on a body suit into the vehicle via open window.
VPD tr (tracking)
Equivalent to SchH / IPO / IGP tracking
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