First of all I need to say
my horses are my partners and friends, I treat them with respect and I
am very thankful they carry me for thousands of kilometres every year
whether it is over some of the most demanding terrain in the world, the
Rocky Mountains, or the very demanding Endurance races.I am also personally involved in the sport of Endurance as well as Dressage and Western riding disciplines. I believe that a "Good Dog or a Horse" should be able to excel in the Show World as well as The Endurance or "Working" type world and we are trying to do just that. ALL of our Dogs and Horses perform in the Show Ring but primarily! as tough and intelligent Working animals. My experience in both, the Dog and the Horse world is backed by several National and World Championship wins with me training and or also doing the farrier work. I also provide Riding Lessons
Bit about me...
Even tho I think 2 year old horses
are in the best age to learn and be lightly started, I don’t like to
ride them for any extended periods of time as I feel they still are not
ready (mentally and physically) for such a task.
I am not a fan of horse shoes but I
do understand that in some instances they are necessary and I use them
on my endurance horses.
I think saddle fit is very important and there is never gonna be a perfect saddle, but we must try the best fit.
I think horses must be kept in shape both Physically and Mentally, that takes time and work.
I don’t break horses in 1 day, I train them. I am fair and understand everything good in life takes time.
Colt Starting:
I offer “Starting” of young horses, in most cases 2 - 4 years of age. Most of my work is outdoors as we get bored in arenas very fast ;)
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My basic program is 30 days long and Your horse will be worked with on average 1 hr a day. - Horses will be exposed to wildlife, dogs, cats, cattle, other horses, traffic, vehicles and ATVs etc.
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I feed good quality hay, oats and Hoffman’s Equine Mineral.
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Your horse will have a Private Paddock unless I feel it would be beneficial for him to be in a herd situation (this would be discussed with owners)
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Most horses will be saddled Western, Australian and/or English style as well as rode bareback.
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Horses will receive a Hoof Trim (if needed) and a Teeth Check, I have an excellent Veterinarian on call only few miles away in case your horses’s teeth need to be done etc.
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Additional “30 Days” of work can be added, this package can include “Mountain Camping and Riding” experience year round.
"Tune Ups":
Do you have an older horse in need of a little “Refreshment Course”? I could probably help you. Usually I recommend going thru the same program we have designed for the young horse.
On top of it we could focus on common issues such as:
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Same as Colt Starting -
Trailer Loading
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Tying quietly
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Water crossing
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Standing quietly while being saddled
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Standing quietly for farrier work
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Not needing to be “caught”
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Desensitizing to the “spooky” world
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“Putting miles on”
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any many more, based on your specific needs ...
"Babies":
I offer one on one lessons
tailored specifically to Weanling and Yearling horses. I often see
people purchasing this “cute little baby horse” only to find out months
(or days) later that this cute baby has been renamed to “such a little
brat” ;-)
You could either develop a lovely,
friendly and confident horse or you could develop a trainers nightmare
by the age of 2 or 3 years. As a matter of fact many of horses sent to a
slaughter house were sent there by their owners exactly because of this
reason. It could save you thousands of dollars and lots of head ache if
you do things right from the very beginning.
I disagree with statements such as
“horses are best left alone for the first 2 years”, this is only
because many people don’t know how to treat or work with a baby horse.
If things are done right it will make your horse’s later saddle training
virtually stress free and it will greatly help eliminate many issues
such as:
Bucking
Kicking
Biting
Running Away
Shyness, Spookiness and many more...
Driving Training:
If you like driving your horses, whether it is slow or fast, I can probably help you. Personally I think every good horse should know how to drive and be driven, plus in my opinion it is lot of fun and it can be very practical as well, esp. if you live on a farm or if you feel that your riding years are behind you and you still want to be active around horses and enjoy them.
How Much?
One of the most common questions is “How much do you charge?”
I believe I am very fair when it comes
to pricing and far from the most expensive around. There are no hidden
fees for board or feed etc and usually most clients get a little extra
rather then not enough for their money.
On the other hand I am not the
cheapest nor I want to be. If you are looking for a cheap fix on your
horse or colt, then I am not the person you are looking for. Believe me I
am not getting rich on horses, but I still need to survive and feed
everyone, including your horse, as well as keep the paddock or pasture
he is walking on. With this being said, if your primarily concern is
price and finding the cheapest trainer, I will still help you out with
passing on some bargain phone numbers. Only pls remember about 50% of
horses that come to me have already been to other trainers and came
home, well ... you guess the rest of the story ...
My price is $800. 00 per month and $40/lesson.
